Mossberg's 500, 590, Maverick 88 and Shockwave series of pump shotguns are beloved by millions of Americans for home defense, hunting, camping, off-the-gridding, farming and ranching. But there's one problem with them -- they shoot really high from the factory when eqipped with a security length barrel and a bead front site.
The problem is so pervasive that it has long been the practice of firearms instructors and police trainers to advise students with Mossbergs to "aim for the belt" just to hit center mass.
The reason for this is that Mossberg's 18.5" and 20" self defense barrels have a front brass bead that sits lower in the sight plane compared to Mossberg's longer 28" hunting barrels. Mossberg's hunting barrels have a "vent rib" over top of the barrel, which raises the bead to the proper height which allows them to shoot to the point of aim.
To illustrate this, here is a photo of my 28" Mossberg 500 Vent Rib Barrel Hunting Barrel over top of my Mossberg 500 18.5" Security Barrel with the factory brass bead:
So when you are shooting a Mossberg short-barreled defense shotgun, it can be very frustrating to hit what you are aiming at when you are shooting at longer distances, especially when you are shooting slugs.
Remington solved this problem with their 870 series defense shotguns by creating a raised front sight platform for their self defense barrels which shoot to the same point of aim as their hunting barrels:
Raised Sight on a Turkish Remington 870 clone with an 18.5" security barrel:
Unfortunately, Mossberg has still not addressed this issue.
Luckily, the aftermarket has responded to this problem in the form of the XS Big Dot Front Night Sight for Mossberg barrels. The XS Sight is an excellent front sight that corrects the point of aim issue, but it is a lot more expensive ($70 to $90 street price) and more time consuming to install.
Seeing the need for a lower cost, easier to install option, Texas-based company Defender Tactical has come up with a new product called the "Highball Brass Bead" to solve this problem once and for all.
The Bead
The Highball Brass Bead is a taller, thicker brass bead that allows your Mossberg shotgun to shoot to the point of aim. It is super easy to install (check out Defender Tactical's install video) and is quite a bit thicker than the original bead so that it cannot break easily if the gun is accidentally dropped. The street price for the Highball bead is $15.00.
Mossberg's small/short factory brass bead (left) next to Defender Tactical's taller and beefier Highball Bead (right):
As you can see, the Highball Bead makes up for the lost height from the lack of the vent rib, allowing for the gun to shoot to the point of aim.
The Rear Tang Safety Sight
Although you can buy the Highball Bead by itself, Defender also sent me their Rear Tang Safety Sight to try out with the Highball front bead. You can buy Rear Tang Safety Sight with the Highball Brass Bead as a kit for $25.00.
Manufactured from aircraft grade aluminum, the Rear Tang Safety Sight has a sight line notched into it to act as a rear sight for better sight alignment with the front bead.
It is also shaped to improve upon Mossberg's rather uncomfortable plastic safety switch. The stock plastic safety switch has sharp edges on it which make it uncomfortable to push back and forth.
The Defender Tactical Rear Sight Switch with its higher and smoother profile solves this issue and makes engaging and disengaging the safety much easier. It's also easier to find and manipulate it with your thumb in the dark when under stress compared to the stock plastic safety switch.
Grovtec's Quick Detach Single Point Bungee Sling has been a great accessory for my Mossberg 500 FLEX Takedown, especially when I have the pistol grip installed. It allows me keep the shotgun firmly and comfortably attached to my body and allows me to go hands free if needed.
Photo Credit: Grovtec.com
It also acts as a poor man's brace to increase accuracy when aiming my shotgun with the pistol grip. Highly rec'd accessory!
Field Testing
Ok, I have the Highball Brass Bead installed, but does it work as advertised?
To test out the Highball Bead, I grabbed my Mossberg 500 FLEX 12 Gauge, installed my 18.5" Security Barrel on it and set up targets at 25 yards and 50 yards. I then shot them with various slugs using both the original bead and the Highball Bead.
I found that the Highball Brass Bead completely eliminated the point of aim issue. Here are the results:
Yes, this target looks like a confusing mess. But that's because a separate wad struck the target after each shot and made a hole similar to a slug going through it, hence all the circles and notes on the target.
But if you look carefully (click on the photo to enlarge it), you can see that with the factory brass bead at 25 yards, the shots were hitting at the top of the chest and slightly right. They were hitting slightly right because using just the front bead (with no rear sight obviously), was causing my windage to be slightly off.
But after installation of the Highball Brass Bead and the Rear Tang Safety Sight, I was putting the slugs right into center mass.
I absolutely love Fiocchi's 7/8th ounce Low Recoil Slugs. Although they were not as accurate as the Remington Slugger Managed Recoil Slugs in my Mossberg, they are plenty accurate within typical slug distances. But their significant advantage over any other slug I've tried, is that they have very low recoil yet still pack a punch. They are also nearly as light as a 20 Gauge slug. So they are an excellent ultra-light 12 Gauge shell to to throw into a wilderness/backcountry survival kit for bear protection and emergency hunting.
Durability
I saw comments in an online forum wondering if the Defender Highball Brass Bead would break easily due to its taller size. Well, I've had the Highball installed on my Mossberg 500 since May of this year (8 months as the time of this writing). During that time, I have bumped it into a number of hard surfaces while going back and forth from the range without the slightest hint of it bending or breaking.
Despite its taller size, it is much thicker overall than the factory bead. Based on my experience with it so far, I believe it would take a blow hard enough to damage the steel barrel in order to break the Highball bead.
Final Thoughts
Cons? Just one -- the Defender Highball Bead and Rear Safety Sight kit is made in China.
According to the owner of Defender Tactical, he would have had to charge double the price if he made the bead and rear safety sight in the United States. He told me that as much as he would have loved to manufacture it here, he felt that gun owners would not be willing to pay that much for a brass bead and rear safety sight.
I can't argue with him that the culture in America is still "buy whatever is cheapest no matter what evil dictatorship it comes from."
Hopefully in the near future this attitude will change, because every Chinese product we buy goes towards the building of hypersonic missiles that are being pointed at our Navy ships in the Pacific.
Origin of manufacturing aside, the Defender Tactical Highball Brass Bead & Rear Tang Safety Sight kit is well made and does exactly what it is supposed to do at a very affordable price.
The Glock 29 is what I carry for dangerous game defense when I'm out in the wilderness. In that role, I keep the gun loaded with full power bear protection loads such as the Underwood Xtreme Penetrator and/or Underwood 200gr Hardcast rounds.
But when I'm not in the wilderness, I also carry my Glock 29 as a CCW pistol.
In a CCW role, bear defense rounds grossly over-penetrate for self-defense use. So I usually switch to jacketed hollow point ammunition to avoid overpenetration once I'm off the trail.
After spending time at the range with the Winchester Defender 10mm JHP rounds, as well as checking out ballistic gelatin tests on Youtube, they have impressed me to the point where I have started carrying them as my main CCW carry round.
The Winchester Defender rounds are not quite as powerful as the typical Underwood and Buffalo Bore JHP's that many are familar with. However, they still feel like real 10mm ammunition when shooting them.
The plus side of this slightly lower power is that recoil and muzzle blast are less intense. In a small gun like the Glock 29, it definitely makes a difference in shootability compared to shooting the larger Glock 20.
The Glock 20 handles full power loads quite well. But the smaller and lighter Glock 29 can get a bit squirrelly in your hands while shooting full power loads, reducing accuracy during rapid fire.
But you are still probably saying to yourself that if these are less powerful than the Underwood and Buffalo Bore rounds, then they are probably less effective in stopping a threat.
However, the Youtube ballistic gel tests below should quickly dispel any notion that these are not effective self defense rounds. The Defender round is quite literally devastating:
How's the accuracy?
Excellent. I tested the Winchester Defenders at common self-defense distances. The targets with the groups trending towards the left were because of high wind conditions that were literally pushing my arms to the left as I fired.The last target was done under calm conditions.
Rapid fire while freestanding:
Slower aimed fire at 15 yards:
As mentioned, the winds were intense and were pushing my arms (and the shots) to the left while doing the tests above. But I was still able to shoot good groups.
Once the winds died down after dark, I did another test using an LED flashlight for illumination:
Without the wind blowing me around, the Defenders shot straight and accurate.
Reliability Testing
I fired a total of 100 rounds of the Defenders through my Glock 29 and it functioned 100%. There were no feeding or ejection issues of any kind.
I also tested the Defender ammo to see if it would cause a jam in my Glock 29 by "limp-wristing" the grip.
A limp-wristing test simulates a scenario where your hand, wrist or arm is injured and you are not able to hold your semi-automatic pistol tightly like you would under normal circumstances. This is always a possibility in any self defense scenario, so I always test my pistols first to make sure they won't do this with my preferred carry ammo.
I've found that with my Glock 29, any 10mm ammo that's putting out less than 500 foot pounds of energy will induce a jam when limp-wristed.
The Winchester Defenders passed this test with flying colors. I ran an entire box of Defenders through my Glock 29 and was unable to induce a jam no matter how lightly I held it. This gives me confidence that the Defenders will function even in the worst case scenario.
Conclusion?
As a CCW round for carrying in a compact Glock 29 10mm Pistol, the Winchester 10mm Defender Jacketed Hollow Point strikes an excellent balance of controllability and reduced muzzle blast while also having very effective stopping power. The round is accurate and the nickel plated cases help with long-term feeding reliability. I like the Defenders so much that they have become my main CCW ammo for when I'm not out trekking on tree covered trails in the Rockies.
5 out of 5 Stars (Highly Recommended)
About the author
Jason Schwartz is the Founder and Senior Editor of Rocky Mountain Bushcraft and a US Army Veteran. After serving in the Army, Jason joined the 175th Security Police Squadron of the Maryland Air Force National Guard and served during the Gulf War. He was selected as an Honor Graduate at the US Air Force Security Police Academy and completed two active duty operational support tours, which included guarding A-10s and C-130s which were flying federal overseas missions. Email him at rockymountainbushcraft @ hotmail.com (without spaces)
Hey friends, if you're in the market for a book to help you survive the apocalypse, check out Suzanne Sherman's The Lost Frontier Handbook.
The Lost Frontier Handbook is part of the popular "Lost Ways" book series.
It is filled with practical food preservation techniques for when refridgeration is not possible. It also has lots of interesting historical examples of how food was preserved hundreds of years ago as well as tips on the types of tools and firearms you should keep on your homestead to make it through hard times.
Suzanne has years of preparedness experience living in the mountains of Utah and it shows in this book.
The section on preserving eggs is worth more than the price of the book itself!
Available in traditional book form or as a digital download for your phone.
Is your fixed blade knife too loose in its sheath? Here's a trick I've been using for many years.
Get some quality 1/8" shock cord or 3/16" shock cord (depending on the size of your knife and the amount of retention you want), cut it to length, and then use a simple overhand loop knot to fasten it onto the belt clip or belt loop of the sheath.
You will have to experiment with how small and tight to make it to have the retention you want.
Using this trick made my Benchmade Puukko shown above, as well as several of my Mora knives that were previously too loose and unsafe, to be safe and secure when carrying them in the backcountry. Plus, it has saved me a lot of money because I don't have to buy aftermarket sheaths to get the retention I need!
One hank of shock cord is enough for many applications, plus I usually have enough left to replace any cord that starts to wear out.
This same trick can be used on any knife that has a retention issue, or, if you just want to add extra retention to an already good sheath.
This is a class I assisted my friend Lex Rule with (shown holding the knife and river stone) at Rabbitstick in Idaho last year.
The goal was simple -- have students bring their dull knives to the river which runs next to Rabbitstick and show them how to sharpen them using only natural stones found in the river. We were able to bring most of the knives to shaving sharpness using just the stones and afterwards, stropping them on the bark of the Willow and Alder trees that ran along the bank.
This is the book my bushcrafting guru friends in Utah swear by for identifying edible and medicinal plants. My initial impression of the book is really good.
Highly recommended!
Cheers, Jason
Buy this book from Barnes and Noble and stop supporting the censorship practices of Amazon!
Hey friends, if you're looking for a 100% wool blanket but don't have a lot of cash, look for USGI Military Northwest Woolen Mills Blankets on eBay and in thrift stores. I have owned a TON of US Army wool blankets, and the Northwest Woolen Mills are the BEST. They tend to be the largest, heaviest, softest and highest quality of all the army wool blankets out there. I'm talking on the level of the famed Italian Army Wool Blankets, only a little lighter. Northwest Woolen blankets run about 4lbs to 4.7lbs vs 5lbs to 5.5lbs for the Italian Blankets. In my experience, they are just as warm as the Italian blankets and easier to carry.
And don't let the "65/35%" thing confuse you. It is a 100% wool blanket. I currently own three of these and they are among my most prized possessions. You can use a dog hair comb to lightly tease one side to make the wool fluffier for more loft and warmth. And if you combine one of these with the USGI Fleece Blanket that Sportsman's Guide sells, it is the cat's meow. With the Northwest Woolen Mills blanket on top of the fleece, I have slept comfortably into the 20s (F) at camp.
Just make sure if you buy one from eBay to ask the seller to provide an actual measurement, because people sometimes wash them incorrectly and shrink them down. As long as the blanket is at least 80"x 60" it is still a good useable blanket. The medical versions of these blankets tend to be slightly larger, so if you can find one grab it!
I would not hesitate to pay up to $60 to $80 for one of these in good condition, but they can often be found for $25 to $45 if you look around or wait a few weeks. These blankets are one of the best kept secrets in the bushcraft world.
Friends, if you see this plant up in the mountains, observe it from a distance and do not touch it. Monkshood is very toxic and potentially deadly if eaten. In fact, even handling the plant is toxic enough to cause illness, so beware!
Jason Schwartz is the Founder and Senior Editor of Rocky Mountain Bushcraft. He is a US Army Veteran, former Red Cross certified Wilderness & Remote First Aid Instructor, and the author of Edible & Medicinal Survival Plants of the Rocky Mountains Pocket Survival Guides. Jason has taught at the Rabbitstick Primitive Skills Gathering in Idaho and at the Winter Camping Symposium in Minnesota. In addition, he has written articles on bushcraft and survival forBackpacker Magazine and TheNew Pioneer.
Email him at rockymountainbushcraft @ hotmail.com (without spaces)
Last year, I came across a knife destruction video by the Dutch Bushcraft Knives Channel while surfing Youtube. In the video, they tried to destroy a knife with a name that was most certainly NOT easy to remember - the "Terava Jaakaripuukko" (try pronouncing that with your friends at your next bushcraft gathering!).
The knife is a 5.5" high carbon 80CrV2 Finnish military survival knife sold by military surplus outlet Varusteleka of Finland. Some of you may be familiar with Varusteleka because they sell a ton of hard to find European military surplus gear to bushcrafters in the US, Canada and the UK.
Now, I have seen a lot of destruction videos in my time, but this one took the cake. These two crazy Dutch knife reviewers pounded, with a hammer, the Terava Jaakaripuukko blade through a cinderblock, wetstones and mild steel tubing. No problem.
Then, they hammered the tip into hard dead wood and tried to break it off repeatedly. Again -- no problem.
Finally, the Dutch duo hammered the knife sideways into a log and then the big guy, who is built like a viking, stood on the blade and BOUNCED on it to try and break it. NOTHING.
Not happy with their results, they then SHOT the blade several times -- NOTHING.
Finally, they just decided to set it on fire briefly. Again- NOTHING, except some singeing of the rubberized handle.
Here's the video:
I also found another Youtube video from Austrian Army Veteran Joe X. In the video, Joe agressively tries to break the tip on the Terava but was unable to break it. Check it out:
After seeing these videos, I thought "Man, I have to get one of these to test!!" So I contacted Varusteleka and they were kind enough to send me a sample to try out.
The SPECS:
Weight (w/o sheath)- 190 g 6.70 oz
Total length - 270 mm 10.6"
Blade length - 140 mm 5.5"
Blade thickness - 4.20 mm 0.17"
Edge angle - 23°
Steel - 80CrV2, 59 HRC
Street Price - $47.99 USD without sheath, $82.99 with leather sheath, and $87.99 with a kydex sheath
The Terava Jaakaripuukko Survival Knife is a joint venture between popular Finnish based military surplus internet store Varusteleka.com and Finland's leading knife blade manufacturer Laurin Metalli.
Varusteleka has become well known in the American bushcraft community for offering hard to find, high quality European military surplus for less than $10 shipping to the US.
The origins of the Terava Jaakaripuukko Knife are best explained by this comment from a French member of Blade Forums USA who goes by "Schwep." His explanation is helpful and interesting, which I edited for clarity to account for the French-English language difference:
"In Finland, most infantry are called jeager or ranger troops. It's meant to be a general utility knife for conscript soldiers (and civilians) who need a sturdy knife for life in the endless forests to do camp work.
Then, as the army introduced a hybrid knife/bayonet that was actually pretty useful around camp, the soldiers 'lost' them en masse at the end of their training year, so the Finnish army stopped issuing knives or bayonets altogether and instead asked all recruits to bring their own knives. This caused a market for military-styled puukko knives like the J.P. Peltonen M95and M07, in uniquely designed sheaths suitable for upside-down carrying on tactical harnesses.
Surplus shop Varusteleka in Helsinki sold those knives, but due to a very limited production, they were always out of stock so they decided to design their own take on such knives, which were the 110 and 140mm versions of the (Terava) Jääkkäripuukko. Which, in turn, quickly became so popular they they are sold out more often than not.
These knives are made by Laurin Metalli, a reputable maker of Puukko blades."
As you can see from Schwep's explanation, it was designed for soldiers of the Finnish Armed Forces who require a knife that is tough enough to be thrashed on while being nimble enough for wilderness tasks in Finland's "endless forests."
FEATURES
The Terava 140 features a 5.5" high carbon 80CrV2 blade at a Rockwell hardness of 59. It has full tang construction with an exposed pommel that has a hole in it to accomodate a lanyard. The handle is made from a comfortable, non-slip rubber.
The blade's design is a Scandi grind with a secondary micro bevel for edge strength.
The back of the blade is sharpened for striking firesteels and scraping tinder.
The leather dangler sheath features both stitching and rivets and has a sturdy plastic liner to prevent the blade from puncturing through. It has a unique button snap blade retention system that is very secure but easily disengaged by using your thumb to unlock it.
FIELD TESTING & COMPARISON TO THE COLD STEEL SRK
As noted in the title, my first impression of the Terava was that it reminded me of the original 1990s era Cold Steel SRK in Carbon V. The Carbon V SRK was one of the greatest mid-size survival knives ever made in my opinion. It had a stout tip and blade, simple but effective sheath, comfortable rubberized handle, great all around blade shape, and best of all, steel that was tough yet very easy to sharpen and held a good edge.
At this point you may be thinking "But Cold Steel still makes the SRK, including one made from High Carbon SK5 Steel. Why is the newer SRK not as good as the original Carbon V?"
Plainly speaking, the newer SRK in SK5 is just not as robust as the original Carbon V or as easy to sharpen. It has a thin tip (see the comparison further below) that breaks too easy and the steel, although decent, is harder to sharpen and does not take as fine of an edge in my experience. The AUS8 version of the SRK is better (I've owned two of them) than the SK5 version, but it is no longer made.
By comparison, the Terava has all of the features of the original Carbon V SRK, so I wanted to do a direct comparison before commencing field testing.
Terava 140 vs the Cold Steel SRK
Unfortunately, I no longer own any of my Carbon V SRK's, so I substituted one of them with a newer SRK in High Carbon SK5 steel for the comparison.
Comparing the two, although the blade styles are different, they have a lot in common for their intended purpose of military use and survival tasks -- thick, rugged blades, beefy rubberized handles, and highly secure sheaths that are capable of safely retaining their blades in the event of a fall.
The Terava's blade is slightly shorter at 5.5" vs the SRK's 6" length. The SRK has a bowie shaped blade with a sabre grind and the Terava has a Scandinavian grind with a small secondary bevel. The Terava has a full tang with an exposed pommel. The SRK has an enclosed stick tang that runs the length of the handle.
The Terava's tip is noticeably thicker than the current SK5 version of the SRK. The original Carbon V SRKs had much thicker tips (like the Terava). It is important to have a stout tip on a survival knfe because you may have to dig with it or pry things in an emergency (i.e. prying grubs from rotten logs, popping open a locked fuel door on a vehicle to get emergency gas during a disaster situation, etc).
The Terava's spine is also sharpened for striking firesteels whereas the SRK's is not.
Both knives have excellent sheaths for soldier duty or wilderness survival. The SRK's plastic Secure-Ex sheath is lighter and comes with slots to wrap extra cordage through. The Terava's leather sheath is heavier but quieter and does not have slots in it for wrapping extra cordage. The Terava's leather sheath definitely exudes a higher level of quality than the SRK's Secure-Ex sheath:
FIELD TEST
To see if Varusteleka's Terava knife would live up to its description, I took it high up into the Rocky Mountains of Colorado, an unrelenting and harsh environment, to test its abilities.
Batoning
To test the batoning capability of the Terava, I selected a piece of very twisted Cottonwood and split it into kindling. This piece was extremely difficult to split and some of the pieces literally broke off rather then just splitting. The Terava performed excellent during this task. Although it's a Scandi grind, from a splitting perspective, the way the Terava is ground is similar to the SRK's Sabre grind which helps to wedge the wood open as it passes through the log.
I also split several other small logs and large branch sections off camera and had the same results (i.e. excellent).
Fine Carving
Although the Terava's tip doesn't have the finesse of a thin Mora knife, it gets the job done for making bow drill divots, etc:
Wood carving- this is were the Terava really shines compared to the SRK Carbon V and any of the newer SRK versions. For such a stout knife, it carves almost as well as a Mora:
I've owned 6 SRK's over the past 2 decades. Although they cut well enough for a survival knife, they are definitely not great for fine carving tasks. The Terava really ups the ante in that it is a super tough survival knife that can handle fine carving tasks with ease.
Spine Test for Scraping Tinder and Striking a Firesteel
Unlike the SRK, the Terava 140 has a sharpened spine that is capable of making fine tinder shavings or to strike a firesteel to start a fire. Here, I used the Terava's spine to scrape a pile of pitchwood shavings from a Ponderosa Pine branch and ignite it with a firesteel:
Side note/survival tip- Blue medical gloves are great for keeping frostbite away while doing tasks requiring fine dexterity in extreme cold weather. They are super compact so its good to keep them stashed in your pocket and in various kits while you're out in the backcountry.
Preparing to strike the firesteel:
Success!
It is important to note that I did quite a bit of off-camera field testing of the Terava 140 before posting this review. This includes taking it with me to Rabbitstick 2022, where I assisted my friend and knife guru Lex Rule to teach a bushcraft knife sharpening course there.
I gave the Terava to Lex to try out to see what he thought of it. I won't beat around the bush -- Lex is very hard to impress when it comes to factory produced knives. But after Lex spent some time using it and then resharpening it, he pronounced "I think this is one of the best production survival knives I've used -- great steel and edge profile!"
I also used it during a one week camping trip in the Uinta National Forest in Utah on the way back to Colorado from Rabbitstick and it proved to be a great general purpose camp knife. During this time, I got to use the Terava on some harder wood like Hard Rock Maple and Scrub Oak (White Oak). The edge on the Terava held up perfectly.
CONCLUSION
So is the Terava Jaakaripuukko 140 the modern day successor to the original Cold Steel Carbon V SRK? I think so.
The Terava has a different blade style than the SRK, but in every other way, they are similar in features and in real world use. And despite my fondness for the Carbon V SRK, I think Terava has actually improved upon it with its superior wood carving ability.
The Terava's 80CrV2 steel holds an edge as good if not even better than Carbon V, and it is just as easy to sharpen. My experience with 80CrV2 being better than Carbon V were confirmed by Youtuber Cedric Outdoors, a popular knife sharpening and steel testing channel. In his video, Cedric tested a Terava in 80CrV2 and found that it held its edge better than most 1095 steels and as good as a high quality O1 Steel. That's impressive.
The Terava's tip is easily as stout as the original Carbon V if not even stronger. The Terava's handle is as comfortable, and its leather sheath is as secure as Cold Steel's Secure-Ex sheath and exudes an even higher quality.
In fact, one of the cool things I found I could do with the Terava's sheath was to turn it into an effective strop. I rubbed Flexcut Gold onto the backside and then stropped the blade back and forth on it. The shape of the sheath along with the plastic liner and quality/thickness of the leather made it an excellent platform for stropping:
I was able to quickly bring the Terava back to hair shaving sharpness using this method -- pretty cool!
Improvements? Yes, two -- 1) Add a firesteel loop to the sheath, and 2) Bring back the stainless version of this knife as an option for those who do a lot of canoeing, live near the ocean, or just want a maintenence-free knife for their bugout bag.
So if you want one knife that can perform nearly any task -- soldiering, urban/suburban survival, search and rescue or even bushcrafting, check out the Terava 140 by Varusteleka. I believe it's not only a worthy successor to the Carbon V SRK, but it has actually improved upon its concept.
4.5 Stars of out 5 Stars (Highly Recommended)
About the author
Jason Schwartz is the Founder and Senior Editor of Rocky Mountain Bushcraft. He is a US Army Veteran, former Red Cross certified Wilderness & Remote First Aid Instructor, and the author of Edible & Medicinal Survival Plants of the Rocky Mountains Pocket Survival Guides. Jason has taught at the Rabbitstick Primitive Skills Gathering in Idaho and at the Winter Camping Symposium in Minnesota. In addition, he has written articles on bushcraft and survival forBackpacker Magazine and TheNew Pioneer.
Email him at rockymountainbushcraft @ hotmail.com (without spaces)
Jason Schwartz is the Founder and Senior Editor of Rocky Mountain Bushcraft. He is a US Army Veteran, former Red Cross certified Wilderness & Remote First Aid Instructor, and the author of Edible & Medicinal Survival Plants of the Rocky Mountains Pocket Survival Guides. Jason has taught at the Rabbitstick Primitive Skills Gathering in Idaho, Fire to Fire in Utah, and at the Winter Camping Symposium in Minnesota. In addition, he has written articles on bushcraft and survival for Backpacker Magazine and The New Pioneer. 
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